Disassembly of the engine

Engine removed from the car. With the motor removed all attachments and transmission. REMOVAL driving and driven clutch discs and the flywheel. The engine is mounted on a stand. The lifting mechanism is removed.

To disassemble the motor, do the following:

- Remove the front cover of the camshaft drive belt;

- Align the marks on the crankshaft and camshafts (Fig. 4.34);

- Remove the vibration damper via holder 999 5433 (see. Fig. 4.34);

- Remove the bottom cover belt, tensioner, timing belt;

- Tighten the two screws on vibration damper in the pulley of the toothed belt by hand until it stops;

- Universal puller set in such a way to capture stripper working on the bolts and not on himself pulley;

- Remove the rollers and tensioner Idler gear belt (Fig. 4.35);

Removing and assessment

oil pump

Sequencing:

- Remove the four screws fixing the oil pump. Carefully turn the oil pump for his release; screwdriver to pry the tabs of the housing (Fig. 4.36);

- Clean the sealing surfaces and interfaces;

- Remove the two Allen screws and remove the gasket;

- Make sure that parts of the oil pump is not divided by the spring;

- Inspect the parts for signs of damage and wear, paying particular attention to sickle-shaped section (area between the cavities of the suction and discharge);

- Replace the pump assembly, if the items are defective;

- Check the oil pressure regulator spring. To do this, squeeze it as shown in Fig. 4.37 with rated torque (Table. 4.1);

- Set a large pump rotor into working position marked up;

- Install a small pump rotor;

- Check the clearance. If the measured clearance between the outer rotor and the housing exceeds 0.35 mm, the pump must be replaced. The gap measure with a feeler gauge.

Removing and assessment

coolant pump

Sequencing:

- Clean the mating surface of the connector and carefully remove all traces of sealing;

- Remove the back cover of the camshaft drive belt;

- Remove coolant thermostat and gasket, thermostat housing;

- Clean the surface of the connector and interface;

- Check the operation of the thermostat in water, heated to a temperature of 100 ?� C opening Maximum opening should occur within 2 minutes.

Dismantling and assessment

cylinder and a crank mechanism

Sequencing:

- Remove the oil filter;

- Unscrew and remove the oil pan, gently tapping on it a rubber mallet;

- Remove maslozabornik with the tube of the oil pump;

- Clean and inspect the tube;

- Remove the O-ring of the oil pump tube and the O-ring of the oil channel;

- Remove the intermediate section of the block;

- Remove all bolts M7 and M8 of the intermediate section, then turn out all bolts M10;

- Remove the intermediate section, gently tapping on it a plastic mallet;

- Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal, preventing the rotation of the latter;

- Check the label on the cover and connecting rods. If it is missing or not clear, with the help of the core, or apply a new font marked to exclude the possibility razukomplektovyvaniya rods (rods cover individual, depersonalization not be, as each rod bore assembly with its cover). Just deal with the main bearing caps;

- Remove covers of rods;

- Check the condition of bearings in rods and covers;

- Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder;

- Put the crankshaft two outer radical neck on the V-shaped base. Remove the main bearing shells;

- Mark the position of the bearing shells;

- Taking care not to scratch the surface of the cylinder, in turn, remove the hand pistons in gathering with rods;

- Gently with a plastic spatula, clean the surface of the connector block of cylinders, the intermediate section and the oil sump. If you want to use for removing mastic liner;

- Wipe clean the cylinders and inspect them;

- Measure the maximum wear at a right angle to the axial line of the engine directly beneath the upper dead point in the compression zone of the first ring;

- Measure the minimum wear in the direction of the axial line of the lower dead point. Each cylinder has marks (C, D, E, or G), which is stamped into the back of the block.

The repair sizes of cylinders are identified by abbreviations OS1 and OS2, respectively. These markings shall be added after the boring. If the wear exceeds 0.10 mm, the cylinder bore required. Dimensions of the cylinder, refer to "Design and specifications".

Checking the Status

Crankshaft

When checking the condition of the crankshaft using a micrometer: for the necks of radical bearings with a measuring range of 50-75 mm for the connecting rod bearing necks - 25-50 mm. Measure roundness and taper of indigenous and crank pins (Fig. 4.39).

Measurements are made at several points around the circumference and length. Dimensions of the connecting rod and main journals are listed in the "Design and specifications".

Checking the straightness of the crankshaft using a dial indicator head with extension legs and magnetic stand:

- Put the crankshaft two extreme radical neck on the V-shaped prism;

- Turning the crankshaft, measure the radial runout average radical neck. The maximum radial runout - 0.032 mm.

Checking the Status

piston

To check the status of the pistons:

1) Remove the piston rings. Remove a deposit;

2) Clean the groove for the piston rings;

3) Inspect the pistons for damage, cracks, wear and tear;

4) Check the axial clearance of piston rings with new rings and a set of probes;

5) Measure the pistons, as shown in Fig. 4.40. The dimensions of pistons, refer to "Design and specifications";

6) Calculate the gap between piston and cylinder (Fig. 4.41);

7) separate the connecting rods from the pistons. Before disconnecting check for markings on each of pistons and rods. If the marking fuzzy, using pen and write the number of the cylinder, draw an arrow indicating the direction to the front of the engine;

8) Clean the hole of the piston pin;

9) Carefully remove the snap ring with a screwdriver;

10) remove the piston pin push hands;

11) Clean the connecting rods, bearing caps and bolts and check them for damage, wear and cracks;

12) Measure the length of the connecting rod bearing cap bolts caliper. The maximum permissible length of 55 mm;

13) Check the fit of the piston pin in the piston. Luft finger in the piston must be absent. When you hand the piston pin has to slip through the hole without backlash. If there is play, replace the piston;

14) Check the fit of the piston pin in the connecting rod. By pressing the thumb piston pin should easily slip through the hole without tangible backlash. If there is backlash measure the diameter of the piston pin and, if necessary, replace the sleeve top head of a rod;

15) Inspect the connecting rod bearings. In the presence of scuffing, peeling and vykroshivaniya working layer replace the liners;

16) check the straightness of the rod;

17) Check the connecting rod for bending and twisting of the rod;

18) Make sure that the clamping surface of the plug is round and has no burrs (Fig. 4.42);

19), if necessary, replace the connecting rod sleeve top for this:

- Set the rod on top of the head and the stand with a mandrel press out the bushing;

- Press in the new bushing, vertically moving the mandrel (Fig. 4.43);

- Check the fit of the piston pin in the new hub. If you need - pick another hub;

20), if necessary, replace the connecting rod. The connecting rod has a symmetrical shape and if necessary, can be rotated. But when the assembly is necessary to mark the rod;

21) Assemble the connecting rod (tighten the bolts to 20 N ?� m) and make sure that the cover of the bottom head of a rod is turned in the right direction (lock inserts a rod and connecting rod cap are pointing in the same direction);

22) secure the bottom head in a vice with soft sponges and knock the cylinder number on both sides of the bottom head by a core or font.