Engine repair

The front cover of the cylinder, the oil pump and balancing shafts

Withdrawal

Remove toothed timing belt.

Remove all screws on oil sump (Fig. 2.42).

Tap on the oil pan with a rubber hammer, remove the upper and lower section of the pallet.

Remove the bolts, remove the oil strainer and gasket.

Remove the screws and remove the front cover assembly.

Remove the oil pressure gauge.

Remove the bracket and gasket of the oil filter.

Special tools (09213- 33000), remove the plug from the unit front cover / oil pump (Fig. 2.43).

Remove the cap from the left side of the cylinder block and insert a screwdriver into the hole to lock the left balancer shaft in the rest position. For this purpose, use a screwdriver with a diameter of 8 mm, inserting it at a depth of more than 60 mm.

Remove the pinion gear of the oil pump and remove the retaining bolt of the left balancer shaft.

Remove the bolts of the front cover, remove the front cover and gasket assembly, and then remove the two balancing shaft of the cylinder.

Remove the screws and remove the oil pump from the front cover (Fig. 2.44).

Remove the oil pump gear to the front cover.

Check

Check the lubrication holes of the front cover in the absence of contamination and clean them if necessary.

Inspect the balancer shaft bearing for wear, damage, or jams. If the bearing is faulty, replace the front cover.

Check the front cover for cracks or damage and replace it if necessary.

Check cervical balancing shaft for wear or jamming. If there is excessive wear or wedging, check the condition of the bearing.

If necessary, replace the bearing or shaft balancing himself balancing shaft.

Check the oil seal lip for wear or damage and replace if necessary gland.

Check the oil seal lip on the absence of destruction and, if necessary, replace the oil seal.

Replacement of the bearing of a balancing shaft

The special tool, remove the front bearing of the right balancing shaft from the front of the cylinder block (Fig. 2.45).

The special tool, remove the rear bearing of the right balancing shaft from the front of the cylinder block (Fig. 2.46).

The special tool, remove the rear bearing left balancing shaft of the cylinder (Fig. 2.47). To hold a special tool fix it on the front surface of the cylinder.

The special tool establish rear bearing left balancing shaft at the rear of the engine block.

.

The special tool establish the right rear bearing balancing shaft to the engine block.

Make sure the oil hole of the bearing is aligned with the oil hole of the cylinder (Fig. 2.48).

The special tool establish the right front bearing balancing shaft to the engine block.

Setting

Lubricate the gear oil pump and install them by aligning marks on the gears.

The special tool establish front oil seal crankshaft front cover.

Install special tool 09214-32100 on the front end of crankshaft and apply a thin coat of engine oil to the outer surface of the special tool to install the front cover.

Install the new gasket on the front cover assembly and temporarily tighten the flange bolts.

Replace the front cover assembly with a new gasket and tighten the bolts (Fig. 2.49) torque 20-27 Nm.

Insert a screwdriver into the hole for the plug to block the left balancer shaft. Making sure that the shaft is in the correct position, replace the bolt and tighten it to torque.

Install new O-ring into the groove of the front cover.

Special tools (see. Fig. 2.43), set the plug and tighten it to a torque of 20-27 Nm.

Apply a layer of sealant into the groove of the oil pan flange, as shown in Fig. 2.50.

Set oil pan for 15 minutes after sealant application.

Note the difference in the length of the oil pan mounting bolts.

Install the upper and lower sections of the oil pallet and fix bolts, having tightened their moment 10-12 Nm (see. Fig. 2.50).

Using a 24 mm wrench, screw the oil pressure gauge, pre-lubricated thread sealant sensor Threebond 1104 or equivalent (Fig. 2.51).

Tightening torque sensor - 8-12 Nm.

Cylinder block

Dismantling

Remove the cylinder head, the toothed timing belt, the front cover with oil pump, flywheel, pistons and crankshaft.

The cylinder block is shown in Fig. 2.52.

Check

Visually inspect the engine block for scratches, rust and corrosion, cracks and other defects. If necessary, replace or repair the engine block.

Special device measure the cylinder diameter at three levels in mutually perpendicular directions A and B (Fig. 2.53):

- At the location of the compression ring during installation ?��1 piston at TDC;

- In the middle of the cylinder;

- At the bottom of the cylinder.

If a round or tapered cylinder will be more acceptable, or cylinder wall worn or scratched, the cylinder block must be chiseled and othoningovat. Install new pistons and rings oversize.

Bore 2.0l - (85.0 ?� 0.03) mm, 2.4 liter engine - (86.5 ?� 0.03) mm.

Maximum allowable ovality and taper of cylinder - 0.01 mm.

If the top of the cylinder formed collar, it is necessary to remove scan or scraper, without damaging the cylinder wall.

Pistons manufactured oversize with an increase of 0.5 mm in diameter.

When boring cylinders keep the specified clearance between the piston and oversize hole cylinder and make sure that the pistons of the repair of the same size.

Measure the outside diameter of each piston at an angle of 90 ?� to the piston pin at a distance of 2 mm from the piston skirt (Fig. 2.54).

The clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall - 0.02-0.04 mm.

Check the cylinders for damage or cracks.

Metal ruler and probe in several directions, check the flatness of the upper surface of the cylinder. If the flatness exceeds the allowable limits, pereshlifuyte or replace the cylinder block (Fig. 2.55).

Tolerance of flatness - no more than 0.05 mm, the maximum permissible deviation - 0.1 mm.

Cylinder bore

Piston oversize should be determined based on the largest diameter of the cylinder bore.

Identification mark - 0.50.

Measure the outer diameter of the piston is used.

Based on the measured size determine the size of the bore.

The size of the piston bore diameter = 0.02 + 0.04 mm (the clearance between the piston and the cylinder) - 0.02 mm (honing field).

Ream each of the cylinders to the calculated size.

Honing cylinders until the required calculation diameter (outer diameter of the piston + gap).

Check the clearance between the piston and the cylinder.

Assembly

Set the items in the following order:

- crankshaft;

- flywheel;

- piston;

- The cylinder head;

- toothed belt;

- Front Cover.

The pistons and connecting rods

Withdrawal

Removal and installation of pistons and rods is carried out after removing the cylinder head and sump.

The piston pin is pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod and the piston floats on the finger.

Rotate the crankshaft and install the piston of the first cylinder in position of the bottom dead center (BDC).

If the top of the cylinder formed collar, it is necessary to remove scan or scraper to avoid damaging the cylinder wall.

Remove the connecting rod cap nuts of the first cylinder (Fig. 2.56). Remove the cover and remove the lower connecting rod bearing liner. Mark the parts removed.

Hammer handle push the piston to the top of the cylinder and remove it from the cylinder. Remove the upper connecting rod bearing liner.

Repeat the operation, remove the connecting rods with the pistons of the other cylinders.

Before checking piston rods to remove the pistons, piston rings and thoroughly clean the pistons.

To remove the piston rings from pistons unclench a ring insert under it evenly around the circumference of two or three old blade and probe them slide ring piston. Be careful not to scratch the piston ring ends. They are very fragile and can crack if they unclench very strongly. Handle carefully with a sharp leading edge of the piston rings, so as not to cause injury. Keep each set of rings together with the piston to facilitate re-install them to their seats.

Clean all traces of soot from the top of the piston.

Remove the carbon deposits from the piston ring grooves under the old piston ring.

For disassembly and assembly of the piston and connecting rod, use the special tool 09234-33001 (Fig. 2.57).

The tool consists of a fixing support with universal plug, the guide piston pin adapters, the installation of the rod and a stripper. The piston is retained fixing support during installation or removal of the piston pin. The guide piston pin helps to position the finger during removal or installation, while the connecting rod is held inserts.

To remove the piston pin from the piston, the piston is set in the fixing support so that the rod lying on the insert (Fig. 2.58). Thread the puller through the top of the fixing support and use it to drive out of your finger.

Check

Check each piston for scratches, wear, cracks and openings around the skirt under the piston pin. Check wear on the piston skirt, the openings in the piston head, the presence of burnout in the upper part of the piston. If there is any damage, replace the piston.

Check each piston ring for breakage, damage and wear. If there is any damage, replace the piston rings. If you need to replace the piston, piston rings and replace.

Check the fit of the piston pin in the hole of the piston. Replace any piston and finger defects. The piston pin is necessary to gradually push the arm into the hole in the piston at room temperature.

Feeler gauge, measure the side clearance between the piston ring and the piston groove wall. If the clearance exceeds the limit, insert a new piston ring in the groove of the piston and re-measure the backlash. If the clearance still exceeds the limit, replace the piston with the piston rings. If the measured clearance less admissible, replace piston rings only.

The nominal gap between the piston ring and the piston groove wall, mm

compression ring ?��1 and ?��2 ..... 0,03-0,07

oil ring ..... 0,06-0,15

Check clearances piston ring. Insert the ring in the corresponding cylinder and push the piston crown at a shallow depth, to eliminate bias in the measurement of the ring, then remove the piston. Measure the clearance probe. If the clearance is excessive, replace the piston rings and repeat the procedure. The clearance in the lock of piston rings are shown in Table. 2.7.

Table 2.7

Backlash in the lock of piston rings

On the connecting rod and the connecting rod cap is marked with the number of the cylinder, which must be located on one side. When refitting make sure that the number of cylinders supported on a rod and a cover during disassembly, correspond to the number of the cylinder (Fig. 2.59). If a new rod, make sure that the recesses for fixing the bearing located on one side.

Replace the connecting rod, if it is damaged at one end of the thrust surface and an internal surface is damaged if the opening of the upper crosshead.

Setting

To install a new finger to support the insertion of a rod need to be assigned.

Place the rod inside the piston. Set the corresponding guide pin holes through one side of the piston and through the connecting rod. Hand push the piston pin guide so that it retained the piston. Insert the new piston pin into the piston on the other side and put a knot in the fixing support so that the guide pins facing down.

The guide pin must be centered on the rod through the piston. With the right guide assembly will be just below the center of the hole in the arch tools and evenly fall on the insert (Fig. 2.60). If you use the wrong size guide pin plunger and the finger will not be aligned with the fixing support.

Enter the installation rod into the hole on the arc tool. Press-fit the piston pin in the connecting rod as long as the guide pin does not fall out of the connecting rod (Fig. 2.61).

Install the oil ring expander (Fig. 2.62).

Install the upper oil ring. To install, first insert one end of the groove between the piston ring and the expander, then, firmly holding it and pressing the insertion part of the finger, insert it into the piston ring groove.

Likewise, set the lower oil scraper ring.

Apply engine oil to the piston and the piston grooves.

Using a stripper of piston rings, piston ring set ?��2 (Fig. 2.63).

Using a stripper of piston rings, piston ring set ?��1.

Place the piston rings on the piston so that each piston ring lock has been removed from most of the neighboring castle ring (Fig. 2.64). Ensure that locks the rings are not in planes parallel to and perpendicular to the piston pin axis.

Before installing the piston into the cylinder, piston rings it is necessary to tighten the belt tensioning clamp.

Install the piston with the piston rings over the first cylinder, making sure that the front mark of the piston rod and the label are directed to the front of the engine.

Rotate the crankshaft and install the piston of the first cylinder in position BDC.

Install the upper bearing in the connecting rod.

Hammer handle through the clamping band clamp press the piston into the cylinder so that the bottom head of a rod was established on the crankshaft.

After installing the connecting rod cap, make sure that the numbers are applied to the connecting rod and cap during disassembly, correspond to the number of the cylinder.

If a new rod, make sure that the recesses for the bearing are located on one side (see. Fig. 2.59).

Install the connecting rod cap with a liner bearing on the crankshaft nuts and secure it to the rod.

Tightening torque rod cap nuts - 20 Nm.

Similarly establish other pistons with rods.

Probe check connecting rod side clearance.

Nominal gap should be 0.10-0.25 mm, the maximum allowable - 0.4 mm.

The crankshaft and flywheel

Withdrawal

Remove toothed timing belt, the front cover with oil pump, flywheel, cylinder head assembly and the sump. For more information, refer to the relevant chapters.

Remove the back plate and the crankshaft rear oil seal.

Remove the nuts connecting rod covers, remove the cover and remove the lower connecting rod bearing shells.

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Check

Check the crankshaft journals for damage and uneven wear and cracks. ?????????�?????�?� ?�?????�???�?? ???�???�?????�???? ???�?? ???????�?�?? ?????�?�????. In the presence of defects replace the crankshaft.

Check roundness and taper of the crankshaft journals.

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Visually inspect all bearing shells for the presence of delaminations, melting, jamming and incomplete contact. Replace defective bearing shells.

Measure the oil clearance main and connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft. To determine the oil clearance measure diameters of the crankshaft journals and the inner diameters of the bearings. ?�?�?�???? ??� ???�?? ???�?�?????�?� ???�?�???? ???�???�???�?????�?? ???�?????�???�?? ?? ???????�???�???????? ?????�???�?�???�????.

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Most accurately measure bearing clearance using a plastic rod calibrated as follows:

- Remove oil and dirt from the bearings and crankshaft journals;

- Set the main bearing shells in the engine block;

- Cut the plastic strip calibrated rod, equal to the length of the crankshaft journals;

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- Install the crankshaft main bearing shells in the cylinder block;

- Set the main bearing shells in main bearing caps of the crankshaft;

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- If the gap exceeds the permissible, replace main bearing shells;

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Setting

Install main bearing shells with grooves on the engine block.

Install main bearing shells without grooves from the bearing caps.

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Grease the crankshaft journals with engine oil and install the crankshaft to the cylinder block.

Install the crankshaft bearing caps so that the arrow is pointing toward the front of the engine. ?�?�?????�?????�?� ?????�?????? ?�???�?�?�????, ?�?�?�???????? ???� ?? ?????� ???�?�???�: 25 ???�?? + ???????�???????�?? ???� ???????� 90?�. ?�?�?�???�???? ?�???�?�???? ???? ?�???�?�???�???????? ???????�???�?� ???????????????�?� ?? 4??�5 ???�?�??????.

Make sure that the crankshaft rotates smoothly and it corresponds to the nominal axial clearance.

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