Coupling with a hydraulic drive

To drive clutch used brake fluid SAE J 1703 type DOT3 or DOT4 (Duckhams Universal Brake und Clutch Fluid). The frequency of replacement of brake fluid every two years.

Hydraulic clutch actuator is composed of the pedal 7 (Fig. 5.15), the master cylinder 3, the conduit 21, the hose 18 and the working cylinder 14.

Clutch release bearing is carried out, which is operated via a lever 12 working cylinder.

Clutch slave cylinder mounted on top of the gearbox housing.

The master cylinder is located on the pedal support (secured by two screws) and is held on the clutch pedal a split pin.

The master cylinder is connected to the clutch pedal pusher fork 5. When you press the clutch pedal is pushed a fork pusher connected to it in the master cylinder piston. Due to the inside of the master cylinder pressure is generated which is transferred through line 21 slave cylinder.

Removal and installation of the clutch master cylinder. Remove the clutch master cylinder using the following procedure:

- Remove the facing panel below the steering column;

- Using two screwdrivers separate from the stock master cylinder clutch pedal with directional lock;

- Loosen the nuts securing the master cylinder;

- Using two clamps press a flexible hose - one connecting nourishing the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder, and the other - going to the working cylinder;

- Substitute a small container under the master cylinder and then unscrew the fitting and disconnect the hydraulic pipe;

- Remove the clutch master cylinder with the gasket. Laying immediately discard as waste, since the installation, use a new one.

Check the master cylinder using the following procedure:

- Clean the external surfaces of the master cylinder;

- Remove the rubber cover and, if necessary, the pushrod;

- Remove the retaining ring, the washer, the piston and spring from the master cylinder;

- Clean the parts of the master cylinder from contamination, inspect them for wear. Corrosion and wear of the cylinder and piston are unacceptable;

- Lubricate all the parts of the piston with clean brake fluid;

- Remove the old piston sleeve and install new, pre-lubricated them with brake fluid;

- Install the master cylinder in the spring;

- Set piston washer and snap ring groove in the cylinder;

- Apply at the end of the pushrod a thin layer of molybdenum grease and install it into the piston;

- Install rubber (protective) case.

Install the master cylinder spend in the reverse order of removal, thus proceed as follows:

- Tighten the master cylinder nuts to torque;

- Install a new gasket between the master cylinder and the partition;

- The stock master cylinder and place the guide lock in the recess the clutch pedal, as shown in Fig. 5.16;

- Remove the air "pumping" of the hydraulic system.

Removing and installing clutch slave cylinder. Removing the clutch slave cylinder using the following procedure:

- At the top of the gearbox housing, unscrew the bolts of the mounting bracket shift cable or a choice of transfers;

- Press a clamp using the hydraulic hose of the working cylinder;

- Loosen the hose connection on the working cylinder;

- Unscrew two bolts of fastening of the working cylinder and separate it from the gearbox;

- Remove the working cylinder of the connecting pipe union, set in the holes of the hose and the working cylinder caps.

Check the clutch slave cylinder using the following procedure:

- Clean the external surface of the working cylinder;

- Remove the rubber cover and, if necessary, the pushrod;

- Remove the special spring bracket, piston and spring from the socket of the working cylinder;

- Clean the parts of the working cylinder from contamination, inspect them for wear. Corrosion and wear of the cylinder and piston are unacceptable;

- Lubricate all the parts of the piston with clean brake fluid;

- Remove the old piston sleeve and insert a new, pre-lubricated her brake fluid;

- Set in the working cylinder spring piston. Hold the piston rod (or a screwdriver) pressed, set a new spring clip;

- Apply at the end of the pushrod a thin layer of molybdenum grease and install it into the piston;

- Install rubber (protective) case.

The installation of the working cylinder spend in the reverse order of removal, and the proceed as follows:

- Before installation grease with a thin layer of molybdenum grease the end of the push rod;

- The working cylinder to push the gearbox housing, Loosely fixing screws by hand and tighten them alternately to torque;

- Tighten all fittings hydraulic lines clutch torque;

- Connect the end of the push rod to the lever clutch;

- Set the bracket shift cable and transmission choices at the top of the gearbox;

- If necessary, top up the brake fluid in the nutrient tank;

- Bleed the hydraulic system.

Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch

One of the major operational maintenance operations clutch is a hydraulic pumping system, which is performed after the removal of any of its components or ingress of air into the system. An indication of the presence of air in the hydraulic system is to slow down the return of the clutch pedal, or failure to return it at all. Bleeding the system should be carried out in the workshop with special equipment. Before you start pumping, ensure ease the clutch pedal on the axis of the arm and the serviceability of the return spring.

In contrast to the braking system of the hydraulic clutch is not possible to remove the air, just "pumping" the fluid clutch pedal and consequent pouring liquid into a container through a rubber hose to remove the air. The pressure in the system must be created by an external source. The most effective method is to use the kit to remove the pressurized air used for the brake system. Kit for pressure pumping set in place cover the nutrient fluid reservoir of the clutch. The work must be performed in accordance with the instructions on the equipment.

In extreme cases, the system is pumped through the valve (choke) to remove air, located on the clutch slave cylinder.

Bleeding the hydraulic drive without using a special kit is as follows:

- Lift the front of the car, put it on a viewing hole or rack;

- Remove the cap from the valve (choke) to remove air, which is located on the housing of the working cylinder;

- Put one end of a transparent (you can rubber) hose to the valve and the other end into the lower clean transparent container filled with 2/3 of the volume of brake fluid;

- Check brake fluid level in the nutrient tank and bring it up to the mark "MAX";

- Several times sharply depress the clutch pedal (7-10) to create pressure in the system;

- Hold the clutch pedal, loosen the 1/2 - 3/4 turn valve pumping. Brake fluid with air bubbles will start to flow into the container. After the expiry of the liquid in the vessel stops, tighten the relief valve while pressing the clutch pedal;

- Restore the normal level of brake fluid in the nutrient tank of the clutch to the mark "MAX";

- Repeat the above steps until the hose is not stopped outflow of brake fluid with air;

- Keeping the pedal down, tighten the valve on the working cylinder pumping and release the clutch pedal;

- Remove the hose and put the cap on the valve;

- Lower the car on wheels;

- Top up the brake fluid in the reservoir up to the mark "MAX";

- Check the "rigidity" of the clutch pedal. If there is any "softness" or play, it is necessary to repeat the pumping system;

- Check the operation of the clutch when changing gears, when starting off on an incline.

If during the inspection revealed other sounds and any comments on the functioning of the clutch (rattle off incomplete), should contact the workshop to pump pressurized system, as the system could not remain the air.