Replacing the clutch cable

In the new embodiment of the replacement clutch cable is somewhat more complicated than models of the early issues, as required before installing the cable pre-bent. In the upper part of the cable grip located locking band for holding the automatic gap adjusting mechanism in tension. When installing a new clutch cable it is necessary to see to it that he never bend, as otherwise the mechanism of automatic adjustment of the gap can not be operated faultlessly. Note the presence of two different embodiments of the cable drive. The usual option is installed in cars with gasoline engines. In models with a diesel engine in the scheme of the rope clutch damper added (see. Fig. 5.3, arrow).

Removing a cable of coupling procedure is as follows:

- Insert a screwdriver between the steering column and the clutch pedal and slide it to the return spring. Depress the clutch pedal and remove the return spring from the clutch pedal, removing trim the floor on the left side (driver's side);

- Repeatedly press the clutch pedal all the way to trigger the mechanism of automatic adjustment of the gap;

- Working in the engine compartment, slide the retaining clip on top of the protective rubber boot adjustment mechanism to position 1 (Fig. 5.5), moving its slot on the cable;

- Grasp the top and bottom of the adjustment mechanism and squeezing it, put the ends of the staples on the side tabs on the sides of the mechanism of adjustment. If the mechanism can not compress, then it is damaged and need to dismantle the cable by prying it;

- Raise the release lever and detach the cable clutch with stops and rubber shock absorber;

- Remove the trim panels under the steering column and remove the mounting block by fixing screws;

- Release the electrical cables of the clamp 1 (Fig. 5.6), push snap-locking element 2 towards the arm of the pedal shaft and carefully remove plate 3 disposed between the body of the mounting block and bracket of the pedal shaft, pushing it in the direction indicated by the arrow in side of the dashboard until it is released from the clamps;

- Disconnect the cable from the clutch pedal and pull the cable through the rubber guide the bulkhead in the engine compartment. Rubber guide is on the bulkhead of the engine compartment;

- Release cable from mountings and remove it from the engine compartment.

Installation of a cable of coupling is carried out in reverse order of removal, but the work on installation of a cable depends on whether the coupling cable pre-tensioned or not.

If the cable is pre-tensioned clutch, then the following work:

- Enter the clutch cable through the rubber guide bulkhead in the cabin;

- Lubricate with graphite grease the cable end and the point of attachment of the cable to the clutch pedal;

- Connect the end of the cable to the front slot in the top of the clutch pedal (there are two notches);

- Set the facing panel;

- In the engine compartment of the second end of the clutch cable to pass through the support to the gearbox and clutch lever. It does not damage the plastic sleeve on the cable;

- Attach the cable end to the gearbox and secure the cable to the mounting assembly;

- Disconnect from the retainer lugs on the side of the gap adjustment mechanism, remove it and set aside to be used again;

- Set the recoil spring, as follows:

Insert the mounting block to the left fastening device;

pull the clutch pedal is up;

Insert the spring between the clutch pedal and the support 1 (fig. 5.7) of the mounting block, before it is set in the support. Then at the same time push in the direction of opening the clutch pedal bracket 2. For ease of operation, you can press the clutch pedal;

- Repeatedly press the clutch pedal to pull the cable;

- After the installation of a cable of coupling check its tension.

If the cable is not pre-tensioned clutch, then the following work:

- Set the lock A (Fig. 5.8) on the rubber cover around a cable of coupling;

- Create a preload adjuster by pressing the clutch pedal while assistant pulls the rope pull the clutch in the direction of the arrow 1, and simultaneously compresses the adjustment mechanism in the direction of the arrow 2;

- Holding the adjustment mechanism in the compressed position, slide the latch on the side of the projections B controller;

- Attach the clutch cable on the gearbox;

- Establish a returnable spring;

- Remove the retainer;

- Check the clearance adjustment mechanism.

After installation is complete, check the clutch pedal. If you press the pedal felt any "rigidity" or there are signs of seizure, check cable routing and condition of the rope, he had the presence of kinks and twists. Road test the vehicle and check the clutch when changing gear and pulling away on an incline.

Removing the clutch

The clutch can be removed without dismantling the engine from the car.

Since the design of the attachment of the flywheel and clutch elements varies depending on the type of transmission, the coupling and detaching different.

Removal of adhesion (to the conventional arrangement) in the following order:

- Remove the gearbox;

- With the help of a core mark the relative position of the clutch and flywheel housing;

- Separate the release bearing from the clutch lever and look at it, paying attention to the signs of wear or damage;

- Lock the flywheel in a fixed position by a corporate or home-made devices;

- Gradually crosswise unscrew six bolts securing the clutch housing to the flywheel so as to unload the spring;

- Remove the clutch cover assembly with the pressure plate. At the same time it released and clutch plate. Note that the long side of the hub clutch disc directed towards the gearbox, i.e. outward;

- Clean the working surface friction flywheel and check its condition.

When removing the engine or gearbox clutch always disassemble to assess his condition.

Removal clutch bolted directly to the flange of the engine crankshaft, is carried out in the following order:

- Remove the transmission type 020;

- Lock the flywheel using clips (you can from scrap metal to make a homemade device);

- Gradually release the flywheel bolts and remove a flywheel with the pressure plate assembly. At the same time released and clutch plate;

- Release by a lever spring clip and remove the clutch plate;

- Secure the faceplate assembly pressure plate, bolted suitable metal strip to her and to the cover casing (Fig. 5.9), used on the cover of one of the holes for mounting bolts;

- Gradually release the assembly bolts of a press disk and remove the intermediate plate;

- Remove the pressure plate from the crankshaft flange.

Technical condition and traction control

After removing the clutch remove the friction linings wear debris from the surface of the casing, discs and flywheel using only a special cleaner or methyl alcohol. Work is carried out in a respirator and goggles, as the dust is harmful to health.

Wipe with a cloth soaked in gasoline, the inside of the flywheel and check the friction surface of the flywheel. If the friction linings slave drive to the rivet heads are worn out, it is quite possible that the damaged rivets working surface of the flywheel or the pressure plate.

Check the pressure plate and clutch cover for damage, scratches, cracks, color spots that appear from overheating or deformation. If damage is found, replace both parts in the assembly.

Checking the status of the slave drive. Check the condition of the friction linings. When oiling them, the appearance of cracks, uneven wear and unilateral bullies, as well as reducing the distance between the rivet head and the working surface of the pad up to 0.3 mm, replace the clutch disc to the next.

Make sure the damper spring clutch disc are not damaged and do not wedge the engagement is broken too.

To test the run-out clutch disc clamp it with a suitable mandrel or between holders lathe (Fig. 5.10).

Dial gauge set by a suitable support in such a way that the measuring leg is adjacent to the edge of the slave disc, namely to the outer edge of the disk. Slowly turning the clutch disc, make sure the meter reading. If the runout of the working surface of the friction linings, as indicated by the device exceeds 0.4 mm, it is possible to gently straighten the disc with a pair of pliers. If that fails, replace the clutch disc to the next.

With the probe to measure the depth, check the degree of wear of the friction linings.

Check the condition of the spline on the clutch disc on the gearbox input shaft, ease of sliding of the hub on the drive plate splines primary shaft of a transmission, as well as clearance of the splined connection. To do this, set the drive shaft and the rocking of the outer edge. The disc is rotated slightly to and fro. If the clearance in the splined connection exceeds 0.4 mm, the splined connection is worn. The reason for this is largely a slave drive.

Check the wear of petals of the diaphragm spring. If the ends of the petals (Figure 5.11) is developing deep scars, then replace the cover assembly with the pressure plate. Traces generate all the petals of the diaphragm spring to a depth of up to half its thickness.

Check the position of the petals of the diaphragm spring. The edges of the petals of the spring must be in the same plane, and their deviation should not be greater than 0.5 mm. The curved end of the petals can be tucked to the original shape. This is usually a special device is used, but you can slightly bend the petals and with the help of a steel plate with a slot.

Checking the deformation of the working surface of a press disk. The surface of the pressure plate to be checking for warpage using a metal ruler (timber) and the probe.

Place a metal ruler on the working surface of a press disk (Fig. 5.12) and using the probe to measure the gap between the plane of the work surface and line.

Pressure plate with inward deflection of less than 0.3 mm can be used in further operation.

Checking release bearing. Check filmed release bearing, paying particular attention to the smoothness of its rotation, play and wear tracks.

Bearings should be checked by hand. It must be easy to rotate and not to make noise. Pay special attention to bearings, which have been commented on noise at the time of the clutch (pedal). Increased noise when you turn off the clutch release bearing fault characteristic.

When you replace the release bearing to the next, do the following:

- Remove the gearbox;

- Release clamps 6 (Fig. 5.13) release bearing 9 and pull the bearing;

- If you need to remove the plug 8 clutch mechanism, it should use a screwdriver to press on the pin 2 with a spherical head.

Checking flywheel. If the clutch has been removed, check the condition of the flywheel. Check the condition of the gear rim in the case of damage, replace the flywheel teeth. If the flywheel is discoloration on the working surface of the friction necessary to check the tightness of the ring gear on the flywheel.

Since the ring gear can not be replaced separately from the flywheel is required, where necessary, replace the entire flywheel. In this case, replaced by a new and located behind the flywheel drive gear speed sensor.

On the surface of the flywheel adjacent to the flange of the crankshaft, and its surface for the clutch disc are not allowed scratches and burrs. If the work surface friction flywheel looks good, it should be treated with fine sandpaper. This removes small visible burn-zone pads.

Scratches or burrs on the working surface of the flywheel removed groove. When necessary to ensure the groove parallel to the surface of the flywheel adjacent to the flange of the crankshaft, flywheel surface for mounting the clutch and the bearing surface of the flywheel clutch disc.

Before you reinstall the flywheel, check for runout. This is done using a dial indicator (Fig. 5.14).

With slow rotation of the flywheel indicator needle must not deviate by more than 0.2 mm. Otherwise, the flywheel should be replaced by a new one, as the flywheel runout adverse effects on the clutch disc and as a result - and the work of adhesion as a whole.

When buying a new flywheel is required to specify the identity of the engine, as the various engines have set the flywheels.

Flywheel bolts are tightened uniformly with a torque of 70 Nm, then made them consistently delay for another 90 ?�.

Installation of the clutch

Install clutch spend in the reverse order of its removal. Particular attention should be paid at the same time on the following points:

- If you are installing the old clutch, then make sure that all previously matched to labeling. The new clutch can be installed in any position, as it has not yet got used to;

- Grease with refractory greasing splined hub drive plate. Make sure that the lubricant did not get into the working surface;

- If a new pressure plate assembly, first remove the protective layer of grease, but only with a working surface. The remaining lubricant significantly prolongs the life of the clutch;

- To align the clutch disc onto the flywheel is used imitates the slotted end of the primary shaft of the gearbox mandrel VW 3190. To center can also use the old gearbox output shaft;

- Tighten the clutch pressure plate bolts by hand, hold the basket on the bias, so that the pressure plate is uniformly pressed to the flywheel;

- Ensure the free movement of the centering mandrel splined hub drive plate;

- Remove from a nave of a conducted disk excess lubricants;

- Plate mounting bolts to the flywheel tighten crosswise, each time 1-1.5 turns, and tighten them to 20 or 25 Nm (see. Fig. 5.1 and 5.2). Thus the flywheel must lock the retainer in a fixed position;

- Set the release bearing on the lever;

- After installation on the engine gearbox, check the quality of the clutch.