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Repair minor damage to body panels
Erase minor scratches | - If you scratch the surface and does not affect the metal panels, repair it is made extremely easy. To remove loose paint particles and wax coating lightly rub the scratched area of fine grinding paste. Rinse the treated surface with clean water ..
- Small brush paint scratch paint used for the outer coating surrounding body panels. Continue to apply paint layer by layer until it is inside the crack surface reaches the level of the surrounding surface of the panel. Give the new paint to polymerize for at least two weeks, then grind the transition surface flush with the rest of the panel with a very fine sanding paste. Finally, coat the surface treated with wax.
- If the scratch has penetrated through the paint to reach the metal panel and cause it to corrode, it should use a different technology renovation. Penknife from scratch scrape the rust powder, then treat the surface inhibitory paint to prevent corrosion development in the future. Rubber or nylon applicator cover the damaged area treated filler glyantsovochnogo type. If necessary - which is especially useful for narrow putty scratch - for the formation of very fine filler paste can be diluted with a solvent. Before glyantsovochnaya plaster hardens within the scratches wrap fingertip smooth cotton cloth. Then, moistened finger in the solvent quickly slide it along the plastered surface scratches. This will make the surface slightly concave. Now, after hardening putty treated scratch can be painted.
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Repairs dents | - When repairing dents priority becomes deformed surface stretching for the purpose of removing it to the level of the original. It makes no sense to try to achieve full compliance with the original - it is still not possible in view of the violations of the internal structure of the metal panel on impact. The best is to take the level of indentation surface to a level of about 3 mm below the surface of the undamaged section of the surrounding body panels. If very shallow dent pulling it does not make sense.
- In the case where a concave portion is accessible from the back side of the panel should try Align the dent from the inside, a hammer with soft brisk. Tapping dent tightly pressed against the side of her face mallet to settle the pulse strike to avoid excessive bending of the deformed metal panel.
- If the dent portion formed on the bilayer panel or access thereto from the back side is not possible for any other reason, must use a methodology stretching. Nasverlite on the concave portion of the panel a few small holes, trying to they found themselves in the most recessed areas dents. Then screw the long screws into the holes, leaving their heads sticking out so that it was possible for them to grab tongs. Now start pulling dent forceps for screws.
- In the next processing step dents remove paint from the damaged surface portion and a width of about 3 cm around it. This work is best done with a wire attachment or shkuryaschego disk installed in the chuck of an electric, but no less effective, and manual handling of sandpaper. The final stage of preparation for the spackling is scratching the exposed metal dents screwdriver or a fragment of a file or drilling small holes in it to ensure maximum adhesion to the surface of the filler metal. Then you can move on to the implementation of procedures spackling and painting.
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Repair of the rusted holes and holes | - Using abrasive or wire nozzle clamped in the chuck of an electric, remove all traces of paint from the damaged area and the section width of about 3 cm around it. In the absence of the possibility of using an electric work can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper.
- After removing the paint, you can assess the extent of damage to metal corrosion and determine whether it makes sense to start to repair or replace will be wiser panel entirely (if at all possible). The new panels can be purchased is not as expensive as it is thought by many motorists. It is often much faster and even more economical to install the new panel than to repair the extensive damage to the body.
- Remove the damaged panel, all the elements of decoration of the body, except for those that can serve as a guide to re-create the original shape of the deformed sections (such as the lining of block headlights, etc.). Using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove any loose loose, loose and hopelessly corroded pieces of metal, and then fold the edges of the hole with a hammer inside to form a recess for containing a putty material.
- Use the wire brush to remove the damaged metal powder rust. If you have access to the underside of the damaged area, treat it with a corrosion inhibitor.
- Before the start of spackling hole must be plugged. This can be done by riveting or bolting to the damaged section on the back of his hand a piece of tin or blocking the hole with wire mesh.
- After blocking the hole damaged area can be plastered and painted.
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Spackling and painting | - Available in many types of body fillers, however, it should be noted that for this type of work is best attached with a set of body panels for repair putty paste placed in a tube of hardener. In order to achieve the smoothness and accuracy of the contour surface of the putty, paste should be applied to a flexible plastic or nylon applicator. Strictly following the manufacturers instructions (violation of them can result in incorrect congealed putty), mix a small amount of filler on a clean wooden or cardboard surface (carefully use a hardener).
- Applicator, apply the putty in the suitably prepared surface of the damaged section of the body panels. To achieve the desired surface contour and the level of each stroke putty applicator must pass through the entire repair area. Once filled, the surface of the circuit will be close to the original, immediately cease to apply the putty, as one begins to solidify Podlipaev to the applicator, forming lumps and leaving the bully on the treated surface. Continue to apply the paste layers at intervals of about 20 minutes to as long as the level of the surface of the putty will not protrude slightly above the surrounding metal panel.
- After hardening putty, excess of it can be removed with a file. Then begins the stage of sanding and polishing the surface of the putty. It is best suited for this purpose, waterproof sandpaper imported (because it complied with uniform grain abrasive and its good adhesion to the substrate). You start with a coarse-grained paper number 180 and, in a progressive lowering granularity, you can finish at ?�� 600. In order to achieve adequate surface flatness of the paper should be treated pre-wrap around the bar made of thick rubber (wood or foam) or stick to it. During the processing of the paper should be regularly and frequently moistened with water. This technology allows to achieve an absolute smoothness and flatness of the surface being treated at the final stage.
- At this stage, the treated surface damage must be surrounded by a ring of pure naked metal ending gradually tapering off the edge of a good paint. Rinse the treated surface with clean water, washing away from it all, formed during grinding abrasive.
- From an aerosol can spray the treated surface with a thin layer of light-primer. This will reveal all committed in the course of grinding defects that can be eliminated by coating them with a layer of fresh putty. Repeat step sanding and polishing. Repeat punctuate luting, processing and priming the surface to obtain a satisfactory result. Upon completion, rinse the treated surface with water and dry it.
- The surface is now ready for staining. Staining car aerosol should be done with a stationary, dry, heat, and dust-free air. The most fully meet these requirements and conditions of the closed volume of heated space. If circumstances force to carry out a body painting outdoors, you should seriously consider the choice of suitable weather conditions. When working indoors nail dust, sprinkling the floor with water. If you made a painting of a separate body panels of a vehicle, cover the surrounding undamaged panel. This precaution will minimize the effect of small differences in the colors of the old and fresh paint. Such elements like chrome decorative trim strips, door handles, etc., should also cover (and better - rent). To protect the surfaces not to be coated with adhesive tape and use the old newspapers, which should be applied in several layers.
- Before you start using aerosols, thoroughly shake the spray, then sprinkle the surface of the paint trial, practicing the technique staining. Cover prepared for painting the surface with a thick layer of primer. The thickness to be achieved due to multiple priming thin layers. Sparing no water, waterproof sandpaper ?��600 treat primed surface, achieving absolute smoothness. Before proceeding to the final staining let the primer dry completely.
- Apply a layer of decorative paint, again achieving thickness due to the multiplicity of its application. Staining start from the center of the repair area, making hand spray with circular movements, expanding their range in a spiral until until it is all covered the damaged area, plus a ring of surrounding good about five centimeters wide. After 10 - 15 minutes (preferably not later, so as not to damage the edge begins to freeze fresh paint) after the last coat of paint unstick covering the surrounding body panels newspaper and sticky tape. The paint is completely polymerized for about two weeks, after which, to smooth the transition of fresh paint, treat recovered surface is very fine sanding paste. Finally, apply a coat of wax on the panel.
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These photos illustrate a simple method of restoring dents. They refer to Chapter "Repair of insignificant damages of a body" of this Chapter, and can not be used as the sole guide for Car Body Repair this model. |  | - In the absence of access to the rear side body panels for percussion dents, it must be pulled with a hammer with sliding brisk. In the deepest part of the dent, or along its border, or tamp nasverlite small holes at a distance of not less than 2.5 cm apart.
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 | - Then screw the rod into the hole hammer and bring it into effect. Conventional tapping with a hammer on the edge of the dents to help the metal to take its original shape. After completing this procedure, the surface indentations must come close to its original contour and approximately 0.3 cm above the surface of the surrounding metal.
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 | - With coarse sandpaper to remove the paint down to the bare metal. You can do this manually, but the device is shown in the photo, it will help you speed up the process. With a thin, approximately number 320 sandpaper negated paint in a radius of at least 2.5 cm around the site dents.
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 | - After removing the paint is better to check by feel than by sight, enough is smooth metal surface. Zastuchite hammer convexity and / or pull the cavity where it is needed. Clean repair surface wax or silicone stain remover.
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 | - Follow the instructions on the package, mix the pack of plastic filler and hardener. Mixing is critical, and if you break it, plaster hardens too slowly or too quickly (and you do not have time to apply it and give the necessary form).
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 | - Working quickly to prevent freeze putty, using a plastic applicator forcefully put it on a metal surface by making sure there is a full engagement with the metal. Deal with putty that it took shape similar to the original form of the site and slightly above the surrounding surface.
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 | - Allow the putty to harden to the point that it could only push your fingernail. Use the file or prispo-in autonomous shown in the photo, roughly processed putty.
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 | - With coarse sandpaper attached to a board or bar, treat plaster so that it becomes smooth and even. Gradually move on to more and more subtle varieties of paper, always use a plate or a bar, and finish processing number 360 or 4009.
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 | - The processing of hand should not feel the blend of fillers to the bare metal and from bare metal to old paint. If this goal is achieved, remove dust and cover the adjacent panels and trim parts.
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 | - Apply several coats onto the surface. Do not spray too much primer, so it does not drip down, and after application of each layer, let the previous dry. Usually it uses a professional spray gun, but in auto parts stores is commercially available in an inexpensive primer aerosol.
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 | - The primer will help identify defects or scratches. Fill them with a polishing paste. Follow the instructions on the package, GRAIN-thaw her thin (?�� 360 and 400) sandpaper until smooth. Repeat polishing, causing polishing paste and polishing it, as long as the primed surface is completely smooth.
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 | - Finish sanding very thin paper (?�� 400 and 600) to remove excess primer. Wash the area with water treatment and let it dry. Use sticky cloth to remove any dust, then apply a coat of outdoor paint. Do not try to wipe or wax coating applied to the land as long as the paint is completely dry (at least two weeks).
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