Removing the crankshaft

To remove the crankshaft is necessary to remove the engine from the car. The process of removal should be performed as follows:

- Disconnect the transmission from the engine. When removing the gearbox ensure that it does not bend the input shaft;

- To fix the flywheel from turning, and unscrew the crosswise coupling bolts. Sometimes these turn away bolts without locking the flywheel using a plug-in hex wrench. To do this, you must put on the handle of the key sub lever and one hand on the key into the bolt head, hitting the other hand on the upper end of the auxiliary lever. In most cases of such attacks on key bolts turn away. For fixing the flywheel can use the segment of the metal strip drilled at two points and attached to the flywheel by two bolts, as shown in Fig. 72. After completing the operation, it is possible in order to unscrew all the remaining flywheel bolts. Before removing the clutch, you must use a center punch to make a mark on the pressure plate and flywheel to the subsequent assembly of parts installed in the same position. Without removing the lock from the flywheel to turn away a pulley bolt on the opposite end of the crankshaft on the front side of the engine. Removing the drive plate automatic transmission is similar;

- Remove the cylinder head, taking into account the previously outlined instructions;

- Remove the cover of the drive camshaft (see. Sect. 2.5);

- Remove the oil pan;

- When removing only the crankshaft pistons with rods may remain inside the cylinder. Otherwise, remove the pistons and connecting rods according to the instructions set out in Section. 2.6.1. If pistons and rods are inside the motor, then, remove the bearings and bushings, be sure to mark them as belonging to a specific rod and relative to each other;

- From the front end of the cylinder block to set the measuring light on a tripod so that the probe is laid down on the flange of the crankshaft, as shown in Fig. 73. Use a screwdriver to push the crankshaft in one direction, to bring the indicator to the probe pin and set the dial indicator pointer to zero. Then, on the other hand to push the crankshaft in the opposite direction and write indicator. Mounted thus crankshaft axial clearance must be maintained during subsequent its assembly. If it exceeds 0.30 mm, then it must necessarily be taken into account during the subsequent installation. The average crankshaft bearing is provided with adjusting thrust half rings, two pieces on each side, to compensate for the axial clearance. If the gap becomes too large, you can install the new half rings, but not necessarily the same thickness on both sides;

- Unscrew the bolts of the rear cuff of the crankshaft and carefully separate it from the cylinder. His mount is shown in Fig. 74;

- Evenly crosswise unscrew the screws and remove the crankshaft bearing caps. Make sure that the number of bearing caps can be easily seen. They are sequential numerical markings from 1 to 5. The cap is number 1 from the pulley. Markings applied in the middle of the bearing cap (Fig. 75);

- Remove the crankshaft bearing shells and put them next to their caps. All inserts are also digital markings installed on the rear side, and indicating the number of the bearing;

- Carefully lift the crankshaft to the cylinder;

- Remove the inserts remain in the nest of the cylinder and put them next to the appropriate liners and bearing caps of the crankshaft. These inserts have holes and grooves for supplying oil to the crankshaft journal and the subsequent assembly of these are set in the first slot of the cylinder. In Fig. 76 shows details of the crankshaft and bearings, with the exception of the crankshaft bearing caps.