printable version
Annual maintenance
Held at the inscription ?�IN01?� on the display board information system. Checking the oil level in an automatic transmission. Keep level between the marks ?�MAX?� and ?�MIN?� probe. If the level falls below a label ?�MIN?�, the lack of fluid can cause serious damage to the transmission. If the level is too high, the excess fluid can be ejected to the outside. Checking the oil level in an automatic transmission is performed as follows: - Drive the vehicle a short distance, the transmission warm to normal operating temperature, then stop the machine on level ground. Do not turn off the engine, lock the car handbrake, leave the engine running at idle and the gear lever at the position "P"; - Remove the dipstick at the front of the engine compartment, on the front side of the gearbox; wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth, then insert it back again and remove; - Determine the level of liquid: it must be between the "MAX" and ?�MIN?�;
NOTE In unheated box fluid level should be at the level of ?�+20 ?� C." |
- If the level is insufficient, add the transmission fluid is required through the tube of the probe mark. To avoid spilling oil and prevent dirt from entering the transmission, use a funnel with a fine strainer; - After adding the liquid will make a short trip by car to the new distribution of the liquid was then recheck the level and, if necessary, bring it to the required level.
NOTE Do not overfill the gearbox, in which the liquid level is above the top mark on the dipstick. |
Check vehicle for leakage of different liquids. A common feature of leaks from cooling system often are deposits of white or rust colored vicinity of the leak: - Check all the connections, engine gaskets and seals. Particular attention should be paid to cover the joints surfaces camshaft, cylinder heads, oil filter and oil pan. Remember that after a certain time may cause a very slight leakage of liquid in these places. In case of repair the leak (see. Resp. Section); - Inspect all piping and hoses are related to the engine. Make sure there are no leaks and damage. Check whether the proper way to record all ties and collars not fray / are cut if the cooling hoses and wiring bundles: in the future, this may be the cause of a serious problem; - On vehicles fitted with automatic gearbox, check the transmission fluid exchanger tubes for the presence of these symptoms; - Examine the car from below: the fuel tank filler neck, paying special attention to the place of their connections for holes, cracks or other damage; - Check the fuel line, the tightness of connections, wear hose and corrugated tubes. Hoses and pipes often curled around the filler neck, pinched themselves, broken; - Carefully inspect the other tube along the entire length of the machine until the engine compartment, and if necessary, replace components with damage; - In the engine compartment: Check for loose fuel hoses and all others for kinks, abrasions, signs of aging. Checking the rear brake pads. On models equipped with rear disc brakes, as follows: - To establish an emphasis under forward wheels, lift the rear of the car jack, setting the vehicle on supports, remove the rear wheels; - Remove and clean the brake pads if the pad wear on any of the pad has reached the limit, replace the entire set of pads; friction linings pads should not have cracks and bundles.
NOTE The test can be performed quickly, if we measure the thickness of the friction material on each brake pad through the hole in the caliper housing. |
On models equipped with rear drum brakes, check the status of the rear brake pads is carried out by the following algorithm: - To establish an emphasis under forward wheels, lift the rear of the car jack, setting the vehicle on supports, remove the rear wheels;
| Fig. 1.17. Filler plug on the differential housing four-speed gear change (type "084")
|
- To carry out a quick check on the thickness of the friction material on one of the brake pad and remove the inner side of the protective casing brake cap (see. Fig. 1.17); - Determine the wear pads, pressing the friction material pads rod with a diameter equal to the minimum permissible thickness of the material. If you wear a pad pad than the maximum, replace the entire set of pads; - To perform a full scan, remove and clean the brake drum. It is possible to also check the condition of the rear brake cylinder and the condition of the brake drum. Check the steering and suspension. Is as follows: - Fix the car manual brake, then lift the front of the car jack, push it firmly into the support; - Inspect the protective dust caps of ball bearings and bellows pinion steering gear for cracks, frayed areas and signs of aging. Any deterioration of these elements leads to the leakage of the lubricant, followed by penetration of dirt and water that causes their rapid wear and damage; - On vehicles equipped with a hydraulic power steering, check for frayed spots or material aging fluid hoses, as well as the absence of leaks from the connection pipes and hoses. Also check for signs of fluid leakage from the rubber bellows of the steering mechanism, the presence of which indicates a defect inside the liquid seal mechanism; - Try to shake the wheel, holding it in the "12 o'clock" and "6 o'clock". If it is found only a small gap, can not carry out further checks. To find out the cause of the play, ask the assistant to press the brake pedal, and themselves at this time, try to shake the wheel. If in this case the gap will disappear or be significantly reduced, most likely faulty hub bearings. If the brake pedal movement is noticeable, is likely to have the wear of joints or suspension mounting. To resolve it, see. The relevant section; - Continue to do the same, holding the wheel in the "9 o'clock" and "3:00". Have backlash likely speaks about deterioration of wheel bearings or ball joint tie rods. If you had deteriorated internal or external ball joints, the movement is noticeable even visually; - Check the wear bushing supports the suspension using a large screwdriver or a crowbar as a lever inserted between the respective suspension member and a place to attach it. Since the support are made of rubber, that some movement is possible, but too much wear must be evident. Also check the status of all open rubber sleeves, trying to find gaps, cracks or expansion of rubber; - Put the car on wheels and ask the assistant to shake the steering wheel from side to side with an amplitude of about one-eighth of the total turnover. By the turn of the steering wheel and steering wheel car should be observed very small gap or it should not be at all. If there is a considerable gap, carefully examine the condition of the already mentioned elements of the suspension, an additional check for wear on the steering column universal joints, steering itself. Check shock absorbers. Is as follows: - Inspect the outside of the damper housing for any signs of fluid leakage. If a leak is found, replace both of the shock absorber;
NOTE In accordance with the manufacturer's recommendation dampers should always be replaced at the same time only in pairs on each axis. |
- Check the efficiency of each shock absorber, rocking the vehicle for each of the corners of the body. If the shock absorbers are serviceable, the body after you must return to the starting position. If the body continues to wobble, probably shock absorber defective - replace it; - Inspect the upper and lower mounting for signs of wear. Check of protective covers of power shafts. Is as follows: - Raise and support the vehicle safely, turn the steering wheel until it stops, and then slowly turn the wheel of a motor vehicle; - Inspect corrugated rubber protective covers of constant velocity joints, including inside the folds. Check for cracks, tears or signs of aging of rubber, which may cause leakage of grease and getting into constant velocity joint (CV joint) of water and mud. Also check the condition and attachment clamps; - If you find any damage or deterioration of the material, immediately replace them (see. Resp. Section); - Check the general condition of constant velocity joints, first holding the drive shaft still and trying to turn the wheel. Repeat the test by holding the internal hinge and trying to turn the drive shaft. Any significant movement specifies in deterioration of joints or splines of the drive shaft or on loosening mounting nut hub; - Turning the appropriate wheel, check the drive shaft for runout. Exhaust system check. Is as follows: - Let cool completely engine and exhaust system (at least one hour); - By to inspect, using the lift or a viewing ditch; - Inspect all hoses and connections for leaks, corrosion and serious damage. - Make sure that all the brackets and fixtures are in good condition and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage into any of the compounds or elsewhere in the system can usually be detected by the black spot soot around the leak; - Try to shake pipes and silencers. If these elements relate to the body and suspension parts, replace the fastening system or disconnect the connection, and set the elements of the exhaust system so as to prevent contact. Other works that are recommended by the manufacturer. Follow these steps: - Check and if necessary adjust the headlights;
NOTE Fine adjustment of the headlights is only possible with the help of specialized optical equipment and so this work should be done at the service station, which is located in such facilities (in case of urgent need, do a rough adjustment). |
- If the vehicle is equipped with air bags, check them for signs of damage; lubricate hinges and the hood, all of the locks treated with oil, hood latch mechanism; - Ensure proper operation of all electrical equipment, pay attention to the correct readings of all devices; - Check the steering and suspension when maneuvering; make sure that there is some resistance to the steering mechanism, are absent as a "softness" and "stiffness", "zakusyvanie" in certain positions; check the absence of any noise in the suspension and steering when cornering, ride rough road; - Pay attention to the noise in the engine, clutch, gearbox, ensure smooth operation of the engine at idle and there are no interruptions when accelerating on different speed modes; ensure the smooth and gradual inclusion of adhesion and smooth, without slipping, torque transmission, and in the absence of excessive pedal free travel. Check the absence of any extraneous noise when the clutch pedal is depressed; on a transmission with manual switching, check the ease of transmission, make no noise and that the shift lever is moved without failures and jamming; in the automatic transmission, ensure ease of switching gears without binding and increasing engine speed between switching; Check whether the selector in all positions on the vehicle is stationary; - Check when driving at low speeds "metal" clicks or crunches at the maximum angle of rotation of the wheels on both sides; If metal audible clicks, it means that worn drive hinge - joint or replace one of its components; - Observing the precautions on the go, check the brake system of the vehicle. Make sure that during braking the car does not lead to side. Note there is no premature lock one or more wheels during heavy braking. Make sure that during the braking does not transfer any vibrations through the steering, brakes and rear suspension. Check the parking brake: he provides the necessary braking force to hold the vehicle on a slope. Check the operation of the brake servo: turning off the engine, depress the brake pedal several times to pressure in the servo equalized with atmospheric; then, without releasing the brake pedal, start the engine. When starting the engine and with increasing vacuum in the brake servo should see a noticeable "softening" of the brake pedal. Run the engine for a few minutes, then turn it off. Now when you press the brake pedal should be heard hissing from the brake servo. After four or five clicks hiss has to stop, however, the brake pedal must be much tougher.
|