Repair minor damage to body panels

1. If you scratch the surface and does not affect the metal panels, repair it is made extremely easy. To remove loose paint particles and wax coating lightly rub the scratched area of fine grinding paste. Rinse the treated area with clean water.
2. Small brush paint scratch paint used for the outer coating surrounding body panels. Continue to apply paint layer by layer until it is inside the crack surface reaches the level of the surrounding surface of the panel. Give the new paint to polymerize for at least two weeks, then grind the transition surface flush with the rest of the panel with a very fine sanding paste. Finally, coat the surface treated with wax.
3. If penetrated the paint to reach the metal panel and cause it to corrode, should use a different technology renovation. Penknife from scratch scrape the rust powder, then treat the surface inhibitory paint to prevent corrosion development in the future. Rubber or nylon applicator cover the treated area of the damaged putty glyantsovochnogo type. If necessary - which is especially useful for narrow putty scratch - for the formation of very fine paste putty can be diluted with a solvent. Before glyantsovochnaya putty harden inside the crack, wrap fingertip smooth cotton cloth. Then, moistened finger in the solvent quickly slide it along the plastered surface scratches. This will make the surface slightly concave. Now, after hardening putty treated scratch can be colored in accordance with the instructions of paragraph 2.

1. When repairing dents priority becomes deformed surface stretching for the purpose of removing it to the level of the original. It makes no sense to try to achieve full compliance with the original - it is still not possible in view of violation of the internal structure of the metal panel on impact. The optimal level of indentation removing the surface to a level of about 3 mm below the surface of the undamaged section of the surrounding body panels. If very shallow dent pulling it does not make sense.
2. In a case where a concave portion is accessible from the back side of the panel should try Align the dent from the inside with a hammer with soft brisk. Tapping dent tightly pressed against the side of her face mallet to settle the pulse strike to avoid excessive bending of the deformed metal panel.
3. If the dent portion formed on the bilayer panel or access thereto from the back side is not possible for any other reason, must use a methodology stretching. Nasverlite on the concave portion of the panel a few small holes, trying to they found themselves in the most recessed areas dents. Then screw the long screws into the holes, leaving their heads sticking out so that it was possible for them to grab tongs. Now start pulling dent forceps for screws.
4. On the next stage of processing dents should be removed from the surface of the damaged area and a width of about 3 cm around it. This work is best done with a wire attachment or shkuryaschego disk installed in the chuck of an electric, but no less effective, and manual handling of sandpaper. The final stage of preparation for the spackling is scratching the exposed metal dents screwdriver or a fragment of a file or drilling small holes in it to ensure maximum adhesion to the surface of the filler metal. Then you can move on to the implementation of procedures spackling and painting (please refer to the materials shown below).

1. Use shkuryaschego or wire nozzle clamped in the chuck of an electric remove all traces of paint from the damaged area and the section width of about 3 cm around it. In the absence of the possibility of using an electric work can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper.
2. After removing the paint, you can assess the extent of damage to metal corrosion and determine whether it makes sense to start to repair or replace will be wiser panel entirely (if at all possible). The new panels can be purchased is not as expensive as it is thought by many motorists. It is often much faster and even more economical to install the new panel than to repair the extensive damage to the body.
3. Remove the damaged panel, all the elements of decoration of the body, except for those that can serve as a guide to re-create the original shape of the deformed sections (such as the lining of block headlights, etc.). Using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove any loose dangling weakly enshrined hopelessly damaged and corroded pieces of metal, and then fold the edges of the hole with a hammer inside to form a recess for containing a material bonding agents.
4. Use a metal brush to remove with damaged metal powder rust. If you have access to the underside of the damaged area, it treat the corrosion inhibitor.
5. Before the beginning of spackling hole must be plugged. This can be done by prikl?�pyvaniya or screwing to the damaged area on the back of his hand a piece of tin or blocking the hole with wire mesh.
6. After locking hole damaged area can be plastered and painted (see the next subsection).

1. Available in many types of body shpakl?�vok, however, it should be noted that for this type of work is best attached with a set of body panels for repair bonding agents paste is placed in a tube of hardener. In order to achieve the smoothness and accuracy of the contour plastered surfaces, paste should be applied flexible plastic or nylon applicator. Strictly following the manufacturers instructions (violation of them can result in improper bonding agents congealed mass), mix a small amount of filler on a clean wooden or cardboard surface (carefully use a hardener).
2. Apply putty on the applicator appropriately prepared (refer to the materials provided above) the surface of the damaged area of the body panels. To achieve the desired surface contour and the level of filler each stroke applicator must pass through the entire repair area. Once the circuit plastered surfaces will be close to the original, immediately cease to apply putty, as one begins to solidify Podlipaev to the applicator, forming lumps and leaving the bully on the treated surface. Continue paste layers applied at intervals of about 20 minutes to as long as the plastered surface level will not protrude slightly above the surrounding metal panel.
3. After curing putties, its excess can be removed with a file. Then begins the stage of sanding and polishing plastered surface. It is best suited for this purpose, waterproof sandpaper imported (because it complied with uniform grain abrasive and its good adhesion to the substrate). You start with a coarse-grained paper number 180 and, in a progressive lowering granularity, you can finish at ?�� 600. In order to achieve adequate surface flatness of the paper should be treated pre-wrap around the bar made of thick rubber (wood or foam) or stick to it. During the processing of the paper should be regularly and frequently moistened with water. This technology allows to achieve an absolute smoothness and flatness of the surface being treated at the final stage.
4. At this stage, treated the damaged surface must be surrounded by a ring of pure naked metal ending gradually tapering off the edge of a good paint. Rinse the treated area with clean water to wash it all formed during polishing abrasive.
5. From the aerosol spray the treated surface with a thin layer of light-primer. This will reveal all committed in the course of grinding defects that can be eliminated by coating them with a layer of fresh putty. Repeat step sanding and polishing. Repeat punctuate luting, processing and priming the surface to obtain a satisfactory result. Upon completion, rinse the treated surface with water and dry it.
6. Now the surface is ready for painting. Staining car spray should be carried out at the motionless, dry, warm, and dust-free air. The most fully meet these requirements and conditions of the closed volume of heated space. If circumstances force to carry out a body painting outdoors, you should seriously consider the choice of suitable weather conditions. When working indoors nail dust, sprinkling the floor with water. If you made a painting of a separate panel of the car body, cover its surrounding undamaged panel. This precaution will minimize the effect of small differences in the colors of the old and fresh paint. Such elements like chrome decorative trim strips, door handles, etc., should also cover (and better - rent). For the protection of non stained surfaces, use masking tape and old newspapers, which should be applied in several layers.
7. Before starting to use the aerosol spray, shake thoroughly, then spray the paint surface of the trial, practicing the technique staining. Cover prepared for painting the surface with a thick layer of primer. The thickness is achieved by applying multiple thin layers of primer. Sparing no water, waterproof sandpaper ?��600 treat primed surface, achieving its absolute smoothness. Before proceeding to the final staining let the primer dry completely.
8. Apply a layer of decorative paint, again achieving thickness due to its multiple application. Staining start from the center of the repair area, making hand spray with circular movements, expanding their range in a spiral until until it is all covered the damaged area, plus a ring of surrounding good about five centimeters wide. After 10 - 15 minutes (preferably not later, so as not to damage the edge begins to freeze fresh paint) after the last coat of paint unstick covering the surrounding body panels newspaper and sticky tape. The paint is completely polymerized for about two weeks, after which, to smooth the transition of fresh paint, treat recovered surface is very fine grinding paste. Finally, apply a coat of wax on the panel.